The Village of Torroja Del Priorat, Population 172

Our accommodations in Priorat were booked at Cal Compte. Again, our guide Rachel had provided the following quaint directions to the guesthouse..."it is opposite the church and streets are narrow, so I suggest you drove up and skirted around the village as you approach it from Escaladei. Enter the village from the “part alta” the higher part of the village. This will take you on a dirt road (the mayor is waiting for a grant to finish resurfacing it which is not forthcoming!). Park in square near cooperative building and Cal Joc restaurant and walk bags to church square where you will find Cal Compte. Or be daring and drive up to the door down a very narrow, cobbled street from the other side of the village, driving under the arch which is Cal Compte!"

Mike and I had a disagreement on which dirt road was the correct one.  After a few harrowing moments on what I thought looked like a sidewalk, not a road, we arrived in the small village.  For the record, Mike was sure we were on the right road all along.

We parked in the town square and walked down the cobblestone road through the village to Cal Compte.  We saw a couple of people, but they paid us no attention. The huge wooden doors to the hotel were locked up tight when we arrived.  We pressed the external intercom buttons several times but no one answered.  It was about 6PM and we were scrambling around to find a phone number that we could call to inquire about where the keeper of the inn might be.  As if on queue, Joaquim, the owner of the place rolled into the church square and welcomed us inside.

The Cal Compte was built in 1801 although the house has parts which dates back to the 16th and 17th centuries. The entry was truly stunning.  Joaquim showed us where breakfast would be served and showed us to our room.  We were literally the only guests in the whole place. 

It was as if we were staying in a historic monument in the common areas, yet the 3rd floor had been renovated into beautiful, modern guest rooms and suites.  The most incredible views were right outside our window.

Our dinner had been arranged at the local restaurant in town, Cal Joc.  They were not usually open in the evenings, but they had agreed to open for us.  Seriously, there were two ladies (seemingly mother and daughter) there to make dinner just for us.   

When Mike was trying to translate the menu options with the elder woman who was our server, he pointed to the menu item which we assumed was pig, "cerdo", she then formed a gun with her hand and proceeded to simulate a shooting sound.  From that we got "wild boar" and Mike's menu choice was final.  We had a terrific meal, Mike had the wild boar stew which will probably remain in his top 10 meals for quite some time.  They only served wine that was made from the Village of Torroja Del Priorat, it was quite enjoyable.




We walked back through the quiet village to our hotel and entered the grand wooden doors.  What an incredible day..