Mornings at Cal Compte. I usually add a lot of additional description in this case a picture is worth a thousand or less of my words.
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View from our breakfast table |
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Freshly baked almond cake |
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Breakfast buffet |
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Morning in the kitchen in Priorat |
Our guide Rachel was right on time to collect us for our day's touring itinerary. We started our day with a very small wine producer in the Montsant DO, the soulful, emotional wines of
Fiçara Vins. The proprietor and winemaker Jaume Roca gave up his successful job as an accountant to return to the roots of his family vineyard. His emotional connection to this land was so tangible as he drove us to the highest cliff of his vineyard to the "Balcony of Priorat". We stood among his old vines and he shared the history of his land, the grapes, his biodynamic growing philosophy and some of the hardships he has encountered in difficult growing seasons.
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Jaume Roca, Fiçara Vins |
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Old vines on the "Balcony of Priorat" |
Their annual production is approximately 8,000 bottles, so low yield years have a significant impact. We shared some conversation and tastings with Jaume before we moved to our planned lunch. Delightful.
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Wine production room, seriously old school |
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Cream of Artichoke soup with poached |
We proceeded to a lovely lunch at
Quinoa Restaurant in Falset. Their focus on local seasonal ingredients was evident as we enjoyed a delicious lunch accompanied by a local Montsant wine.
We adjusted our afternoon schedule to pick up another couple from San Diego who were also planned to tour with Rachel. After a brief stint at the Falset train station, we were off to our next winery tour,
Capafons Ossó Winery. This producer grows grape in both Priorat and Montsant. This family has made wine in the region for five generations. Mr. Capafons drove us through his beautiful vineyards and passionately shared the lessons and innovations that have formed his farming and winemaking style. He stopped often to have smell flowers, rocks and dirt. Did I say he was "passionate"? He was an early pioneer (at the time, the other growers all called him "eccentric") in leaving the space between the vines unplowed. Instead, he allows wild flowers, herbs and weeds to grow as the winds and bees see fit. He has proved over time that, in this mostly slate land, his method reduces the stress of the earth and improves grape quality.
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The engaging Mr. Campafons |
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Innovative vine alignment and biodynamic farming unique to Capafons Ossó |
We went back to a quaint tasting room where we tasted several wines. Thank goodness Rachel was driving, tipsily we traversed the winding roads back down to Cal Compte for dinner.
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A snapshot with Mr. Campafons |
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